The gold of the Adriatic
Fish, shellfish, molluscs: the gold of the Adriatic
A great variety of fish, offered by a generous and rich lagoon, for a cuisine that celebrates the sea, tradition and the local area, through Ruth and Andrea's choices.
From Caorle to Chioggia, the Venetian coast is not only a very popular tourist destination for holidaymakers who enjoy sunny beaches and Venetian art, but also an area rich in raw materials that the sea offers daily. The treasures of the Adriatic, of which fish are the most valuable, offer us a wide variety of species that inhabit a complex lagoon that is shallow and contains sandbanks, islands and artificial channels. In addition to noble fish such as sea bass, bream and scallops, traditional Venetian menus must definitely include fatty fish, moles, goby (typical of the 'risotto di gò' as it is commonly called) and of course the famous molluscs, moeche.
Venice's delicacies – soft, rare and precious
The 'Moeche', the molluscs of Venice, are simply local crabs called “Carcinus Mediterraneus” which shed their shells for a short period twice a year, leaving them bare and vulnerable. Fishing for molluscs is a real challenge, requiring the experience and skill of the 'moecanti' fishermen, who seek out the crabs at the right seasons and can distinguish the “boni (good)” from the “matti (crazy)”. A curiosity linked to this type of fishing refers to the Lion of Saint Mark holding the Bible in its claws, which is locally called the Lion in Moeca: this nickname apparently comes from the habit of male crabs (which shed their shells a few months earlier) of sitting on the females, protecting them from external attacks. According to the less romantic version, the crab holds the prey between its stomach and claws and carries it until the right time to devour it.
From the lagoon to the market: the pursuit of quality
Generation after generation, fishermen have dedicated themselves to patiently waiting for what the sea will give. A long work that requires patience and does not always reward them: nature and the weather are elements that cannot be controlled or predicted far in advance, and the experience of these sailors, with faces burned by the summer sun or cut by the terrible winter air, is not always enough. That is why the market is an essential place to buy the best fish possible: among the stalls and the cries of the morning, Ruth and Andrea always find the ingredients to prepare their special, high-quality dishes. The return of the fishing boats is the moment when you find out the day's offer of fresh fish from the 'mògnoli' (local fishermen): trusting their selection is essential, even for an expert chef like Andrea, who recognizes their value as the cornerstone in choosing the products of the day. The lively and fascinating atmosphere of Chioggia's large market is often shared with guests who join Ruth and Andrea in buying “caparossoli”, “schie” and other freshly caught varieties.
Once or twice a week, the smell of oven-baked, pan-fried or grilled fish invades the kitchen, delicious appetizers and steaming hot risottos are served at the table, and new and traditional recipes make up the menus that Andrea has fun suggesting and experimenting with.
